The Man with the Red Earring

Mystery hangs over our early English portraits, and none is more mysterious than that of the brash young man in flashy armor, fanciful red earring, and steely gaze that we call Portrait of a Gentle­man Wearing a Breastplate–an intriguing but elusive figure from late 16th-century England.

Who is this blond-haired man-child with peach fuzz on his upper lip? Research has revealed some of the secrets of this painting, which once was identified as Col. George Goring. It almost certainly is not he.

Conservation treatment and six years of research have revealed some of the painting’s secrets. It arrived at the Museum in 1967, along with six other portraits from the Scott family of Kent, England, the gift of North Carolinians Mr. and Mrs. James MacLamroc. An inscription on the painting identified the young man as Col. George “Lord” Goring, a well-known English Royalist soldier. Our analysis shows that the work was painted about 1590, all but ensuring that its subject is not George Goring (1608—57).

British School, Portrait of a Man, possibly Sir Robert Sidney, circa 1585—90, oil on canvas, 46 1/2 x 33 5/8 in., Gift of Mr. and Mrs. James MacLamroc

So who is this blond-haired man-child with peach fuzz on his upper lip? His clothes and possessions are much too rich for a common soldier and too extravagant for the battlefield. His lace collar, flamboyant yellow sleeves and breeches, officer’s staff (spear), and extraordinary breastplate suggest some kind of parade costume. Both the frilly embroidered handkerchief on his arm and jeweled glove on the helmet must be lady’s favors, telling us that he is probably dressed for a tournament. Finally, the earring makes a bold statement: earrings were typically worn by sailors, poets, actors, and fashion-forward young noblemen, often to give the Puritans of the day a good poke.

Detail of the elaborate breastplate after conservation treatment. Our gentleman’s clothes and possessions are too rich for a common soldier and too extravagant for the battlefield.

This portrait is part of the History and Mystery exhibition, on view in West Building through June 25. Free admission.

The painting holds as many secrets as the man. A 19th-century engraving shows it at full length.